Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
